Information about Argentina

As of December 19, updated March 22

Food

In the larger towns there are big supermarkets where you can buy the everyday needed stuff. In the big cities there are also shopping malls with an offer of European goods. In the countryside there are only the small shops, which are also called “supermercado”. They have only a very limited offer, but mostly local and fresh products. In the mountain villages, the shops are not even labled, you just have to know at which door you have to knock. This does not make shopping easier for us, but it encourages us to seek contact with the local people. The great, open markets still exist in the Andean villages, but they want to be found.

Water

The petrol stations always have water tabs with drinking water, which is free. Often we also got out fresh water at the tourist information offices. The water quality in the campsites is not always perfect.

Diesel

The petrol station network is very dense, except of course in the Andes. There it is an advantage to have a cruising range of over 1’000km. The consumption is slightly higher at this altitude and on the slopes than on usual tarred roads. The quality of the diesel is well suited for modern engines. Sulfur content is 1’500ppm for the cheaper variety and 10ppm for the more expensive variety. We consistently chose the more expensive option, also because of the height.

Money

In Argentina, Western Union does not work the same way everywhere. Depending on the agency, different documents must be presented. At “Kioscos” for example that also offer WU, it is sometimes not possible to withdraw large amounts of money. Once I had to get a CDI number from AFIP, the Argentine tax authority, to be able to collect my money! In the case of original WU agencies, sometimes the passport must be shown, but usually only the ID and the transaction is processed very efficiently. And all this is done with a very beneficial exchange rate.

Since the economy in Argentina is no longer running optimally, there has been a black market for the Argentine peso again. On the black market, the ARS is worth half as much as at the official rate. The best option for travellers is to have the pesos sent to them with Western Union. WU also charges the black exchange-rate.

The currency, Argentine Peso, ARS, is easy to obtain and freely convertible. The course is a much cheaper if you can exchange USD into ARS. ATMs are in most localities. Credit cards are actually accepted everywhere except in the small village shops.

Overnight Places

Free camping is really everywhere possible and at least tolerated, except where it has livestock, because then everything is fenced. With the iOverlander-app you can find some good places in this country. There are many campsites around, but often they are extremely loud and dirty.

Internet

We had bought a SIM card from all three major providers. In the Andes ”Personal” is the best, Movistar sometimes good, Claro never. Basically it has no network in the Andes except the free WIFI at gas stations. Below 1’000m AMSL there was an acceptable internet coverage. Movistar is the best along the coast. The purchase of a prepaid SIM card is relatively exhausting and complicated, it took us more than half a day. You cannot recharge the cards at offices of the respective provider, but only in “Kioskos”, but very easy.

Outside the Andean area, the Internet in the north of Argentina is very good with often 4G. In the province of San Luis there is an open state WIFI in all the villages.

Streets

The roads in the lowlands are mainly very good. The unpaved roads are getting less and less. In the Andes, most slopes are neat, but there are some passages where all-wheel is beneficial. The lonely places can be reached as everywhere in the world only with appropriate vehicles. Each province raises its own road fees on the main roads, but these are not particularly high.

Regulations for heavy motor vehicles

Headlamps above the windscreen are prohibited.

On the truck an “80” sign must be attached. On the sides must be visible reflectors. We never got a remark neither at the border nor at the police controls that anything on our vehicle would not comply with local regulations. The police did not specifically check us during our stay in Argentina. The normal police check we always passed without problems and with extremely friendly officials.

Most truck scales on the roads are out of order. As a mobile home, however, we do not have to use these scales, because it is clearly marked only “cargo”. In front of the larger towns, a sign “circulation transito pesado” (lorry bypass) is installed in a rather poorly visible way. We highly recommend following these bypasses, because the towns are sometimes so narrow and full of deep lines and branches that it can be very uncomfortable for trucks.

Customs formalities

Entry to Argentina since November 1, 2021

Border crossing from Uruguay to Argentina

Argentina requires travellers to:

• A full vaccination against Covid19
• A PCR test not older than 72 hours
• A completed immigration forms

We had the PCR test done in Trinidad at the Comeflo IAMPP private clinic, Fray Ubeda 647, www.comeflo.com.uy . They assured a confirmation by email within 20 hours. The public hospital would have also done the test, but with a delivery time of at least 48 hours. The test is chargeable at both locations, the private clinic has charged UYU 5,159 p.p. During the day we drove to the border of Paysandú, spent the night alone at the Rio Uruguay and were able to download the test in the morning with the best possible internet reception. We were also able to fill out the online form here and print out all the documents.

The processing at the border was extremely efficient. Our forms have been checked, the TIP of Uruguay been stamped – they really wanted to see Ernstli! – new TIP issued by Argentina and we could drive, no review from Globi! We were done in a good half an hour, there were no waiting times, but neither were there any others who wanted to cross the border.

We entered Buenos Aires by plane from Europe. Entry into the country was basically free of problem, easy and quick.

Before departure, the paperwork is enormous compared to before Corona. First of all, a Covid certificate must be available, i.e., a full vaccination. Entry without a vaccination is also possible, but then a two-week quarantine will apply. Next, a PCR test needs to be provided. This COVID19 test must not be older than 72 hours at departure. Afterwards, only when the PCR test is available, an online form must be filled out. This form must be presented upon entry.

The PCR test is now easy and uncomplicated to obtain in Switzerland, it is also no longer as extremely uncomfortable as it was a year ago, perhaps we have just got used to the cotton swab. At departure we had to show the Argentinean form in addition to the usual documents. In Buenos Aires the printed form was carefully checked, otherwise the entry was problem-free and completely normal.

2019 we travelled from Fray Bentos across the Rio Uruguay to Gualeguaychu in Argentina. The border offices of the two states are in the same building, so it was not clear to us which official is responsible for which country. We have to hand over the truck-ticket from Uruguay and get a new one for Argentina. Unfortunately, we only receive a 90-day visa. Sometimes you can get a visa for 8 months. No one knows what the basis for the decision is. The vehicle though has to leave the country with us again. The customs officer who controlled the vehicle is very relaxed: motorhome okay.

Handling time: 1h
Visa cost for 2 persons ARS 0.00
Facilitator: ARS 0.00
Photocopies: ARS 0.00
Roadtax Globi: ARS 1’500.00 bridge toll
Roadtax Ernstli: ARS 0.00
Insurance for all Mercosur: USD 788.00 p.a. Must be paid and confirmed before crossing the border.
Further fees were not charged at customs.

When we arrived from Chile via paso Bellavista, we were the only arrivals. The form for the vehicle had to be filled in by hand, as there are no computers here yet. Otherwise everything went very fast, nobody wanted to control our vehicle.

Handling time: 10′

When entering Paso de Integratien Austral everything was very efficient, three counters, once visa in passport for 90 days, extension in an emigration office possible, once vehicle paper Chile handout, once received new vehicle paper for Argentina for eight months.

Check-in time: 20′

Exit

We recently experienced that we also had to fill out an online form when leaving Argentina. The form can be downloaded from https://ddjj.migraciones.gob.ar/app/home.php

Personal observations

In the Supermercados you can always find Fernet-Branca, a drink that we have found nowhere else except in Italy or Europe. The displays were always very well stocked, almost the same number of bottles as Coke! Soon we discovered that the boys here drink all Cola with Fernet-Branca with a mixing ratio of 50:50! For Peter as a lover of Fernet, that was really terrible.

Something strange for Europeans is that all vehicles equipped with blue light always drive around with it working. No one takes notice of them because nobody knows if they really have an emergency or not.

In most villages there are central places, which are very neatly maintained. These places are equipped with outdoor fitness equipment and small parks. The fitness equipment is used again and again!

Our personal highlights

North Andes

1. RP Ischigualasto (super, guided tour) S30° 06.866′ W67° 53.964′
2. Valle Calchaquies RN 40 (rock structures) S25° 40.965′ W66° 05.121′
3. Sierra de San Luis RP 9 (Pass with an enormous view) S32° 42.994′ W66° 09.696′
4. Laguna Blanca (Mountain lake with Guanacos) S26° 37.496′ W66° 56.358′
5. Quebrada del Toro RN 51 (Valley of many colours) S24° 27.446′ W65° 56.966′
6. Los Cardones (cacti) S25° 10.319′ W65° 49.638′
7. coloured rocks on RP 412 (coloured rocks) S31° 28.681′ W69° 23.790′
8. Olacapato Grande – Chico RN 51 (Scenic road) S24° 09.671′ W66° 39.554′
9. PN Sierra de las Quijadas (Hike in the rocks) S32° 28.421′ W66° 57.739′
10. antes de Antofagasta de la Sierra (volcanos) S26° 12.367′ W67° 24.147′

Our highlights are listed on the route map as waypoints H01 – H10.

North Argentina

1. Cuesta de El Portezuelo (awesome viewpoint) S28° 29.934′ W65° 36.608′
2. Sal de Guayatayoc (walkable salt lake) S23° 31.622′ W65° 59.505′
3. RP 72 Jujuy (lonely, demanding road) S22° 45.216′ W65° 33.162′
4. Quebrada del Condorito (Pass road) S31° 44.251′ W64° 54.504′
5. Quebrada de Humahuaca (very nice valley) S23° 16.866′ W65° 21.774′
6. Córdoba (lively city) S31° 24.994′ W64° 11.058′
7. Markt in La Quiaca (real market) S22° 06.223′ W65° 35.634′
8. Puerta de Lipan (Pass road with a view) S23° 41.245′ W65° 37.769′
9. Orosmayo, Provinz Jujuy (beautiful valley along the Rio Ajedrez) S22° 36.820′ W66° 23.122′
10. PN Calilegua (jungle) S23° 45.504′ W64° 51.122′

Our highlights are listed on the route map as waypoints H01 – H10.

Coast

1. Darwin Expedtion, Puerto Deseado (Expedition to the Rock Hoppers) S47° 45.100′ W65° 55.114′
2. Puerto Pirámides (Boat trip to the whales) S42° 34.524′ W64° 16.785′
3. Playa Isla Escondida (Close to the sea elephants) S43° 40.500′ W65° 20.492′
4. Playa nach Caleta Olivia (sea lions at the beach) S46° 29.647′ W67° 28.555′
5. Cabo dos Bahias (penguins without tourists) S44° 54.984′ W65° 32.952′
6. Bahia Inutil (scenic route along the Laguna) S53° 28.027′ W70° 11.578′
7. Routa Provincial 1 (scenic route with a lot of variation) S45° 15.155′ W66° 57.678′
8. Estancia Haberton (Estancia as a museum) S54° 52.695′ W67° 19.702′
9. PN Monte Leon (hike to the pinguins) S50° 20.894′ W68° 53.879′
10. Lago Yehuin (beautiful landscape on the lake) S54° 21.646′ W67° 46.973′

Our highlights are listed on the route map as waypoints H01 – H10.

South Andes and Antarctica

1. Antarctica (icebergs, whales and orcas) S65° 19.426′ W63° 30.093′
2. Cascada del Agrio (colourful waterfall) S37° 48.635′ W70° 55.387′
3. PN Perito Moreno (wild, lonely park with beautiful walks) S47° 45.887′ W72° 09.953′
4. Gletscher Perito Moreno (living ice break in the lake) S50° 27.895′ W73° 01.743′
5. La Angostura (Peninsula in Lago Alumine) S38° 54.861′ W71° 11.719′
6. Lago Queñi (Quad road and great hike to hot springs for swimming) S40° 07.287′ W71° 39.237′
7. Festival national de la Esquila (Immerse yourself in the world of the locals) S45° 40.997′ W70° 15.155′
8. El Chaltén (hike from El Pilar to Poincenot) S49° 17.076′ W72° 56.034′
9. RP 6 Neuquén Chos Malal und El Cholar (beautiful valley) S37° 22.537′ W70° 27.834′
10. Agua Caliente (the many steep, impressive canyons) S36° 41.797′ W70° 37.445′

Our highlights are listed on the route map as waypoints H01 – H10.

Nordeast

1. Parque National Mburucuyá (Hiking with a lot of animals) S28° 00.794′ W58° 01.958′
2. Foz de Iguazu (Most beautiful waterfall) S25° 41.001′ W54° 27.310′
3. Parque National Chaco (Lovely chilling place) S26° 48.504′ W59° 36.371′
4. Parque National Iberá Pellegrini (Fantastic boattrip) S28° 32.234′ W57° 11.108′
5. Cafayate (Lively little town) S26° 04.853′ W65° 58.667′
6. Jungelpiste RP21 Misiones (Adventurous jungle track) S26° 54.555′ W54° 05.551′
7. Hotel Cerro 7, Misiones (Wonderful overnight place with a likeable owner) S26° 07.072′ W53° 44.653′
   Our highlights are listed on the route map as waypoints

Our statistics

Daily expenses for 2 persons: